 
If a dog is not getting a lot of 
				exercise it does not need a high energy diet.
				As a maintenance diet for the 'average' companion dog, somewhere 
				around the 20% protein range is suitable.
				This is on the basis that your dog goes out, running free, with 
				you for at least a couple of hours a day interacting by chasing 
				balls or romping around with other dogs.
				If your dog only walks on the lead a couple of times a day and 
				other than that only exercises in the confines of an average 
				garden, somewhere around the 18% protein mark is better suited.
				
				Every mammal requires some protein input 
				for good health. 
				Like humans, a dog will break down protein to 
				obtain specific amino acids that support growth, tissue repair 
				and the production of enzymes.
				Although these are all necessary nutrients, there is no benefit 
				in getting more protein than needed.
				Excess protein is either burnt off for energy, excreted or 
				stored as fat.
				
				Too much protein can have an adverse effect on a dogs behaviour. 
				
				It can make the dog hyperactive, unfocussed, cause lack of 
				concentration and even unpredictable 
				behaviour - 'whizzy' is a term we have heard used to describe such an 
				effect. A bit like the effect too much sugar can have on young 
				children.
				It is surprising how much of a change occurs in a hyperactive 
				dogs behaviour when the protein level in its diet is reduced. 
				High protein diets and low levels of exercise can also lead to weight gain.
				
				It's a question of meeting the dogs needs.
				If your dog has a higher level of activity and energy output - 
				maybe it goes jogging with you or you do regular daily agility, 
				flyball or other sort of interactive practice sessions with 
				competition at weekends you may need to raise the level of 
				protein a little - to around 22% - on the active days.
				
				If your dog is required to do a lot of exercising or is pregnant 
				or ill then it may be  best to feed a food with a higher protein level 
				- up to 24%  - 
				but going much above that is unnecessary and potentially 
				detrimental.
				If a dog is ill then speak to a veterinary practitioner about 
				diet but be wary of using a specialist and very expensive food 
				as manufacturers of such diets offer vets and retailers a high 
				profit margin to promote their products.
				There are better priced options on the open market.
				
				Think about the exercise levels your dog gets and the level 
				of protein in the diet you feed. Is it balanced?
				A balance is what you should seek to achieve.
				If your dog has some days of low energy output and other days 
				with more exercise you may consider having different foods in 
				stock for different occasions so you can substitute or mix in the higher 
				protein food with your normal maintenance diet as and when required.
				If this is your choice then make sure the two foods are 
				compatible. Maybe from the same manufacturer.
				
				Another consideration is quantity. You may think that you can 
				vary the amount of protein your dog is getting simply by feeding 
				less, or more of the same food, but this will affect the levels 
				of other nutrients your dog is receiving so it's not an 
				advisable course of action.
				The answer to this one is to initially follow manufacturers 
				instruction and then closely monitor your dogs weight. 
				If your dog starts to gain weight, reduce 
				the quantity, if it loses weight, increase the quantity.
There are various popular 
				methods of feeding dogs these days.
				The most convenient is a complete food.
				By 
				law, in order to be labeled a 'complete' food, these have to contain 
				all the necessary nutritional components a dog needs in the 
				correct proportions.
				Complete foods are available dried, wet and raw. There are also 
				vegetarian versions in each category.
				
				Any nutrients destroyed by the processing of a complete food 
				must be replaced before the product can be so described.
				
				If you feed a complete food, the theory is that you only 
				need to adjust quantity to suit a dogs energy output in order to 
				achieve a balanced nutritional level. You do not need to 
				supplement such a diet - in fact many nutritionists and 
				manufacturers are quick to point out that any supplementation of 
				these foods throws the balance out and is undesirable.
				
Dried Foods
			The most popular, cheapest and most available complete foods are 
			dried versions and there are a variety of ways these can be 
			prepared, the most common being extruded, but they can also be 
			baked, air dried or cold pressed with the cost rising according to 
			the process used.
				
				As well as the advantage of convenience, complete dried foods come in 
				a range of types to suit dogs of different ages because a dogs requirements also vary with their 
				age as well as their levels of activity.
				Puppies require a diet with high protein to aid growth, 
				Adolescent dogs a lower level. Mature dogs lower still and 
				senior dogs even less (although there is an ongoing debate about 
			this). The levels of other nutrients in the food 
				also vary to suit a dogs age.
			
			Raw foods.
			These diets are growing in popularity because they are normally 
			unprocessed and are theoretically much closer to a dogs natural 
			diet. They are available as complete or complimentary versions.
			They are usually frozen for preservation in retail outlets but can 
			be prepared at home using natural ingredients or purchased as fresh 
			complete diets from specialised, artisan, producers.
			If feeding a raw or 'barf' diet you may also find it available in 
			pouches or trays but here we need to be cautious because in order to 
			ensure these foods are free of bacterial pollutants they would need 
			to contain preservatives or be pasteurised to extend shelf life, in 
			which case they have diverged from the original principal of feeding 
			raw foods and are better described as raw 'wet' foods.
'Wet' foods, i.e. tinned, pouches, 
			trays or chubs. 
			Generally speaking these are complimentary foods not complete diets 
			(unless labeled as such) and need to be supplemented by the addition 
			of other components in order to achieve a balanced diet.
			The labeling of protein levels in wet foods can be a little 
			confusing as they contain a high proportion of water which is a 
			nutritionally neutral component.
			A wet food with a 10% protein level could only be compared to a 
			dried food protein level if the proportion of water in it is 
			deducted. Wet foods need to be fed in greater quantities than dried 
			foods and need the addition of other components to balance the diet.
			The most popular added component is a biscuit base but even this 
			come in various levels of protein and carbohydrate and are not 
			balanced in their nutritional value. There are forms of 
			complimentary additives to wet foods that have biscuit and vegetable 
			ingredients that are more desirable but there is nothing to stop you 
			adding your own fresh Cooked or raw) vegetables to your dogs bowl to add vitamins, fibre 
			and minerals.
			
			Fresh diets.
			Remember the 'old days' when dried foods had not been invented, 
			tinned foods were the only available versions of a 'wet' food and 
			were rather expensive and most dogs were fed what was left over from 
			the family table supplemented by cheap cuts, bones and offal from 
			the butchers, often fed raw?
			The expression 'fit as a butchers dog' meant more than an 
			advertising slogan for a manufacturer and has a ring of truth.
			There are manufactured version of 'Fresh Foods', the main difference 
			between these and a 'wet' food being that they are not processed by 
			pasteurisation and contain no added preservatives. Their shelf life 
			is short and they need to be kept refrigerated.
			Are they balanced? Only if labeled 'Complete'. Can they be prepared 
			at home? Yes, fresh daily and varied according to what the family is 
			consuming at the time, however we do not suggest a diet of takeaway 
			foods and ready meals.
			In most cases, at best such over processed takeaway or ready meal diets should be labeled fuel, not food.
			The trick with a 'fresh' food diet is getting the nutritional 
			balance right and that is not so easy.
			
			Mix and match.
			Ideally speaking this means a varied diet of dried, wet, raw and 
			fresh foods, complete or complimentary, carefully thought out to 
			provide a dog with a good nutritional balance and able to be varied 
			to suit age, energy levels and physical composition of the breed in 
			question. Practically speaking this is complimenting a complete 
			dried diet with a variety of extras calculated to maintain the 
			correct balance of nutrients the dog needs. Either way it means 
			variety.
			
			In Border Collie Rescue we feed complete dried foods for the most 
			part but we do compliment and vary this diet by the addition of 
			other components like fresh or cooked meats, raw or cooked 
			vegetables, wet foods and additional supplementary treats like 
			bedtime biscuits. The amount of dried complete diet is varied to 
			take into consideration the nutritional value of the additional 
			components (yes - even the biscuit treats) and in most cases that 
			additions to the dried complete foods are in very small quantities 
			that are added more for variation and interest than anything else.
Whatever form of diet or mix of food type 
			you chose the key point to remember is balance and adjustment to the 
			dogs varying needs as it progresses through life and its daily 
			requirements according to the amount of its energy output.
			Always read the labels and stay away from  foods with 
			unnaturally coloured ingredients as some of these may be chemical 
			based colourants banned in human food because they have been found 
			to have an adverse effect on health.
As to how regularly you should feed your 
				dog - once daily, twice daily, more often?  
				We follow the twice daily routine. Half the daily requirement in 
				the morning and half in the evening, but if a dog is going to 
				travel or do a lot of exercise you would not want to feed too 
				much beforehand so on days with high energy output a good meal 
				the night before, followed by a smaller breakfast may better 
				suit the dog.
 
				There are exceptions to all this - pregnant bitches, puppies and 
				growing young dogs and older dogs all need different balances in 
				their diets and taking that into consideration the level of 
				exercise and energy output needs to be looked at to arrive at 
				the right conclusion.
				
				A final consideration is what else you feed your dog other than 
				it's daily meals. Treats and training aids, even chew sticks, 
				all add calories and need to be taken into consideration as part 
				of the overall intake of nutrients.  
				Getting the diet right is not simple, 
				but it's not rocket science either.
				Basis rules coupled with 
				observation and tweaking will achieve the correct result.
As mentioned before, an important thing to remember is that a dogs diet needs to be varied according to its 
			requirements at the time.
			Age is one thing to consider and energy output is another.
			These days allergic reactions to certain ingredients is also be a consideration but don't always rely on what a 
			manufacturer says on its products - after all, their main intention is to sell you their foods and take your money.
			
			There are hypoallergenic foods out there that use substitutes for 
			the most common ingredients that cause allergic reactions. Dogs can 
			be allergic or intolerant to ingredients like wheat, corn, dairy, 
			soya, beef products, even fish - and of course additives like food 
			colourants and preservatives.
			There is a difference between an allergy and intolerance although 
			neither is desirable as reactions in either case cause discomfort 
			and can also lead to poor absorbsion of nutrients.
			If your dogs shows symptoms like bloating, diarrhea, loss of 
			appetite, excessive flatulence, loss of hair, itching or other skin 
			conditions it is possible these may be caused by an allergic 
			reaction or intolerance to something in its diet.
			There again it may be something else entirely, 
			something much more serious, so before trying to sort it out 
			yourself - seek veterinary assistance.
			Do some research. 
			See what other people think and make your choice based on some independent information, but look carefully 
			and be very wary of fanatics who believe that their choice of diet 
			is the only one and are on a mission to convert the uninitiated!
			
			Look out for, and be cautious of, sources of information that have a 
			vested interest in persuading you that a particular product is the 
			best one to use. 
			Manufacturers of some of the dog foods made by subsidiaries of bigger global companies	are not above having reviews in their favour posted by their agents 
			(posing as members of the public) on forums and other public platforms.
			Some of them are also not above using vivisection to 'prove' some of their products. 
			See our 'Dark Side' section.
			It is a mess of contradictory information out there so very much 'buyer beware'.
			
			Try and use a family food manufacturer with which you can communicate and hold accountable - but check they are independent and not a 
			subsidiary of a bigger corporate conglomerate. many are - look them 
			up.
All dogs should have access to fresh water at all times.
When we say 'access to fresh water at 
			all times' it means that sufficient water to last a dog between top 
			ups should be there, within it's reach, so it can drink as and when 
			it is inclined to and that the water container is emptied and 
			refilled with fresh water at every opportunity. 
			Every time the bowl is refilled it should be cleaned. It should be 
			made of a material that is easy to clean. It must be anchored down 
			or of a design that 
			cannot accidentally be knocked over or pushed outside of the dogs 
			reach.
This is particularly important if feeding any type of dried food, where 
			water should always be provided alongside the food. These dried foods can be soaked beforehand if required, which is
    particularly good for older dogs or invalids. 
			However, most dogs prefer to eat the extruded complete diets dry and
    crunchy with any water added being introduced immediately prior to the food being given so
    it has no time to soak. So a full water bowl needs to be provided.
In situations where there is concern that a dog 
			with 
			unlimited access to water it may drink too much and urinate in its 
			accommodation area, there is a simple solution. Take the dog out 
			on a regularly so it can relieve itself outside!
			Don't deprive it of water and don't expect it to wait. If it 
			leaks or involuntarily soils itself, take veterinary advice!